I watched from my train bunk as the bright sun twinkled on the blue water of the Black Sea. A pod of dolphins soared out of the water and dove back under. What an exceptional welcome to Southern Russia! We had been on the train from Saint Petersburg for nearly 47 hours and now we were nearly arriving in the beautiful resort city of Sochi. The ornate train station greeted the tired and excited students as we gathered our bags to board the bus that would take us to our hotel. During the semester, we take one long trip to another city (or a number of cities). This semester we had the opportunity to spend 6 days in the future center of the 2014 Winter Olympics, also known as the “Miami” of Russia. After much needed showers and rest, the next day brought us a tour of the city by bus and a visit to a tea plantation where we learned about the history of the introduction of tea into Russia and the techniques for producing and brewing different kinds of tea. After our short lecture overlooking the rolling hills of tea plants, we gathered in the tea house to enjoy the singing of famous Russian songs (accompanied by the sounds of nearly ten differently-sized accordions) as well as tea brewed from a samovar and breads, honeys, and jams. The next day we hiked up one of the mountains in the Western Caucasus (в Агурское Ущелье) for nearly 6 hours. Although the hike was physically challenging we were rewarded with some of the most amazing views I have seen in Russia. The mountains of the Western Caucasus region are spectacular, not mention we were also able to see the Black Sea from where we stood. After our hike, we dined at a Georgian restaurant, which was very appropriate seeing as how close we were to Georgia. The next day, we hiked 11 kilometers up another mountain (Гора Ахун). It was great we were able to see how people lived in the different villages as well as admire the home gardens. From there, we were able to take pictures with a baby lion, a peacock, a parrot and a monkey. I also had the most amazing Jasmine tea with lemon and honey and sweetened figs. The tea was served from a samovar of course. We visited the tower from which we were able to see gorgeous views of mountains to one side and the sea to the other. We were up so high we were able to see the city of Adler and Abhazia (region which was once Georgia). The next day brought up to Krasnaya Polyana, the mountain and area which will hold the Winter Olympics in 2014. We stood on the snow capped peak after an hour long ski lift ride. The view was incredible. I felt like I was on top of the world! Afterwards, we visited a pacery (honey farm) and sampled different types of honey (i.e. Chestnut, lime, white, etc.) as well as honey vodka and honey wine. (These were both interesting and surprisingly delicious.) We had an excursion at a trout hatchery where we fed fish. Interestingly, amber colored trout are specific to this area. I had never seen them before. During then downtime we had (i.e. when we weren’t on our excursions) I really enjoyed swimming in the salt water pool at the hotel and going to the rocky beach to look for sea glass. I loved to explore the stunning resort city with my friends. Unfortunately our time in the sunny and warm Sochi had to end with another two day train ride. (A necessary Russian experience) I hope I can return to Sochi one day; it has left such a wonderful impression on experience in Russia as a whole.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Easter...Христос Воскресе!
Sunday, April 4th and in many places all over the world, Christians are celebrating Easter. Here in magnificent Russia, Easter is a very important holiday (along with New Year, Christmas and Women’s Day) to many of the religious (and nonreligious) people. Baskets of beautifully colored eggs and Easter bread are taken to the church to be blessed and пост (Lent) comes to a final close. In my class on Friday, we talked about Easter; its origins, religious services and traditional food and of course we expanded our lexicon of these customs. I have also had the opportunity to go on excursions to Владимирский Собор (The Church of Vladimir) and Александро-Невская лавра (Alexander Nevsky Monastery) to experience Orthodox services and walk around to admire the ancient golden icons hanging on the walls. The churches are also typically decked out for the Easter holiday.
My teacher had also mentioned that it is always sunny on Easter, which I thought was quite remarkable, but honestly I too cannot remember an Easter where there was no sun! The weather here has been exceptionally nice with sun nearly every day and the temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which is warm compared to the cold temperatures we experienced not too long ago. The next day, I learned how to make borsht and куличи (Easter bread) with a bunch of my friends. We also boiled and dyed eggs. We played the game with each other where two people would hold one egg and strike them against each other to see whose egg triumphs and does not crack. My American friends and I introduced the tradition of the Easter egg hunt to our Russian friends and everyone had a great time. The funniest part of it was that we did our Easter egg hunt in a small apartment, not outside (do to the snow-melting/muddy conditions).
Last night, around midnight at churches all over the city, Крестный Ход (Carrying of the Cross) took place. The priest carried a cross and all parishioners followed with candles; the mass of people circumvented the church three times. I watched this on TV with my host mom and her daughter, however, after a little while I had to go to sleep, I was so tired!
Easter morning, I enjoyed a huge breakfast only enjoyed during this holiday. I greeted my host mom with the phrase “Христос воскресе!” (Christ is risen!) and she responded with “Воистину воскресе!” (Indeed he is risen!).We had пасха, a very typical Russian Easter dessert made from творог (quark), sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla and raisons. The closest thing it resembles in my opinion is very sweet, creamy cheesecake. And this was served with куличи (bread). (They are very tasty together). We had different kinds of колбаса (sausage), dark bread and red caviar. We also had hardboiled eggs, which had been dyed deep purple using a natural coloring. Talk about eating WAY too much, but it was all delicious. To say the least, my Easter in experience in Russia was something that was very interesting and differed greatly from the Catholic traditions I am used to celebrating back home in the USA.
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Oatmeal Under My Feet
Well I’ve been back in Russia a little less than a week now. The flight was very long and my baggage was lost for a night from the extremely short layover we had in Frankfurt, Germany but that’s ok because I had left the majority of my clothes and the essentials at my host family’s apartment. The first night was a little rough with the jetlag. I woke up around 4 am and couldn’t fall asleep again until almost 7 am. I had barely slept on the flights because I was so uncomfortable! But who doesn’t know that it’s hard to sleep on planes? Haha. Oh well, I got here and I’m LOVING it!
There is so much snow here. Nevsky Prospect and other streets near the center of the city are covered in a yucky brown slush. I feel sorry for anyone not equipped with water proof shoes. The arms-length of road closest to the sidewalks is the place to look out for. When crossing the street, one sometimes does not notice that the mushy brown slop can be 2 or 3 inches deep. The Russians have an adorable saying for the slop that we all must trek through. They call it “каша под ногами” or translated literally, “oatmeal under one’s feet”.
Where I live (about a 45 minute commute from the center of the city) I do not experience the “oatmeal” that I must walk on near school. The heaps of heavy snow on the side of the road where I live are taller than me. The snow is crisp white on the side walk and has only recently been semi-cleared. The main focus for the street cleaners I guess is for the center of the city where there are more people. The street where the cars are is khaki colored, as there simply are not as many cars that travel down my street. The street is basically and couple inches of hard packed snow where the cars drive and everything else in the street is a good few inches deep. It reminds me of walking on a really soft sanded beach, minus things like warmth and sun. It is very hard to walk on at times and the walk to the metro in the morning takes me about 5 to 10 minutes longer. I love where I live though. It is literally like living in the country side. I don’t experience the same noise level or pollution that one hears and breathes in the central parts. My living situation is definitely worth the long commute.
One thing to watch out for in St. Pete is the falling icicles, called “сосульки” in Russian. Today, I was walking near a building next to my school and the sidewalk was blocked off so all the pedestrians had to walk along the street while a man on the roof of the blocked off building pushed snow off and removed the icicles. This was obviously to avoid falling, deadly spears. It was so funny because there were cars parked in front of the building at the edge of the sidewalk and much of the falling snow was pushed onto the cars, which caused many car alarms to go off. I had to laugh, not that I would want that to be my car…
I had my first day of classes today. I really like my schedule, I am in a class with one other person (who happens to also be a good friend of mine) so class is enjoyable. It is also very intense. Since it is the teacher and the two of us, we always have to be on our toes. I do feel like I am learning more than I ever have because the class is so small. This semester I’m taking a more advanced levels of grammar, phonetics, and conversation practice. I am also taking a word formation class and a syntactical phraseology class. I’m really excited because with these I should be able to improve my vocabulary acquisition a lot more.
We received the list of excursions that we will be going on this semester and there are no repeats, except for two! Our leaders did a really good job of putting together and really fun schedule, It just so happens its almost half of the list I had made with some friends of places we wanted to make sure we got to.
The language adjustment back to only-Russian at home took a few days. I’m getting back into the swing of things and speaking much more freely and easily. Now that I have working internet at home it’s much easier to stay in touch with people and I hope this also means that I can post on this blog much more frequently. Be sure to read! It is sure to be a very wonderful and exciting semester. Tomorrow I am going to the Russian Museum with my babushka.
One day later, after the Russian Museum…Today I had such a wonderful day. It snowed heavily in the morning but after eating warm “запиканка” which is basically like cheesecake with dried fruits such as apricots and raisins in it. It is soooo tasty. Babushka and I bundled up in our big coats and boots and set off through the thick snow to the metro. We arrived at the Square of the Arts where the Russian Museum (“Русский Музей”) is located and took some pictures of the winter wonderland. I love the way this city looks covered in snow. We entered the Russian Museum and my ticket turned out to be free with my student ID!! What a great surprise! Last semester I had to pay thirty rubles. Which is barely a dollar but the novelty of now not having to pay to get into this Museum was just fantastic! I can also get into the Hermitage “Эрмитаж” free with my student ID. We checked our coats and began on the second floor and after circling through, worked down through the first floor. She explained SO much to me. She would describe stories or legends behind the paintings, tell me about the leaders that some of the portraits were of and also elucidated her favorites. We both agreed that abstract and modern art are not our preferred pieces to view. My favorite part was when we were in the modern art show room and she told me that the goddess Venus that someone had painted (in modern art form) looked like a pig. Hahahahaha It was so funny. Then, we were walking back through there and a lady that worked there told us to hurry because they were closing off this section; Babushka whispered to me, “Oh! Well that’s a good thing, it’s not worth seeing.” Once again, another fabulous Babushka quotation. Well, to each his own, we just happen to not enjoy modern art. After we walked around for about 2 ½ hours we left to go back home where I am now, getting ready to eat “пельмени” (pelmeni-meat dumplings). Yay!